“What strange phenomena we find in a great city, all we need do is stroll about with our eyes open. Life swarms with innocent monsters.”
– Charles Baudelaire
Honestly, when Mr. Baudelaire pronounced these famous words, he probably attached a lot of aesthetic meaning to it, however, when you think of Mumbai in this context, you can take that quote in an atrociously literal sense. Known as India’s financial capital, Mumbai is home to more than 20million people in an area of 603 sq kms – placing in excess of a staggering 20k people living per sq km of it’s land. Phew! Hot & crowded, yeah? Well, that’s exactly what Mumbai is, though admittedly there’s far more to this great city than its swarm of populous masses. Located on the western coast of India, Mumbai is the epicenter of the nation’s economic activities – which probably explains its massive population. As a tourist destination, Mumbai has continued to attract and fascinate western tourists. The searing heat (or the ceaseless rains if you visit in the wet season) can truly push your limits as a seasoned traveler. The cosmopolitan nature of its population presents the perfect opportunity to observe a truly vibrant urban culture, mingled with a belief system that can qualify as borderline bizarre by a lot of western standards. Locals fondly call it ‘the city that never sleeps’ or ‘Aamchi Mumbai’ (meaning simply ‘My Mumbai’ in the local dialect, Marathi) and for someone who loves to travel and see a lot of places, I’ve always been glad to come back to a city of such complex characteristics and overwhelming warmth (both natural & humane).
A Local’s Guide to The City of Dreams!
A Peek into The Magical City of Dreams
Weather:
Mumbai has a tropical climate – typically, a tropical wet & dry climate. If you were to ask me, the city experiences two seasons – the ultra-wet monsoons and the smoking hot summers! June to September is the wet season, whereas December to February is supposed to be a cooler season, but in truth is just as hot as the summers during the day (with some respite after the sun goes down). The average annual temperature is ~27.2 °C, but expect temperatures to be in the high 30s when the sun is out, though it rarely hits 40. The best times to visit Mumbai is probably in the apparently cold period of December to February, when you will at least have some respite during the nights, and it won’t be quite as humid as the rest of the year.
Getting There & Getting Around:
Mumbai houses the country’s second most busiest airport – Chattrapati Shivaji International Airport. Geographically, the airport is located quite centrally (albeit in the suburbs). It is extremely well connected to the main city and neighbouring suburbs (where you’re likely to stay). Pre-paid or post-paid cabs are available as soon as you walk out of immigration. If you feel truly adventurous, you could also walk out and hail an auto-rickshaw – the three-wheeled wonder that plies its trade in the suburban region of the city; though I’d recommend you leave this adventure for a later date when you do not have your luggage to worry about. If you choose to hire a cab by meter, it should never cost you more than 500-600 INR, which should be enough to take you all the way to Colaba, which is the southernmost point and the main tourist district. The streets of Mumbai are more complex than many metropolitan cities you visit, and although the people are generally helpful & kind, if you are unfortunate, you might find a deceitful cabbie that runs you in circles before getting you to your destination, just for an increased fare. Mumbai is extremely well connected by rail & road domestically with multiple govt. run trains running from all parts of the country and countless bus-services providing daily service by the dozen.
Mumbai’s Local Trains at Peak Hours!
For transport within the city, if you really want to test your tolerance levels (and if you aren’t claustrophobic), you could hazard an attempt on the local trains that connect most localities within the city as well as the suburbs. Both the city and suburbs are very well connected by government run buses too, and are just as crowded as the local trains – though, you might be able to catch air-conditioning on some of them. You’d do well to buy a bus+train schedule from a local store if you plan on using these mode of transports. Also remember, cabs/taxis ply in the main city from Colaba to Bandra, beyond Bandra and into the suburbs, you could hire the three-wheeled auto-rickshaw, which isn’t allowed to ply in the main city! Private vehicles are also available for rent – the best thing to do is ask at the place you live, they should be able to help you out. Plenty of services provide taxis on call too – so transport around the city isn’t difficult at all, only a little cumbersome with ever-present traffic 🙂
Stay:
For all its crowdy splendor, Mumbai is a ridiculously expensive city to live in as far as real-estate goes. In fact, it is considered to be amongst the most expensive cities in the world to live in on a GDP per capita basis. Budget travelers in particular can expect to have a hard time finding decent but affordable accommodation. Mid & upmarket places too, relatively cost a little higher in India than some of the western countries. South-Mumbai, including areas like Colaba & Marine Drive, which are usually frequented by foreign tourists, are extremely expensive. As a general rule, the further south or the closer you get towards the sea front, the more you will pay for your bed. Look for couch-surfing opportunities particularly in the western suburb of Bandra, where if you are lucky, you might just get to stay with a charming little Catholic family in a lovely little bungalow/duplex. There are some great recommendations here, otherwise there’s always booking.com. In general, you could expect to spend anywhere from USD 15 – 80 per day per person on your accommodation (including upmarket accommodation).
Tourist Attractions:
I believe the biggest attraction for any traveler coming to Mumbai is bound to be its diverse metropolitan culture. Despite having lived in this city all my life, I can’t help feeling amazed from time to time by the sheer determination with which people in this city co-exist with the massive number of fellow humans in the city. Some of the major tourist attractions you would want to check off your list are summarized below: Museums & Galleries:
The Kala Ghoda Art Festival – Mumbai’s Focal Point of Visual Arts
The Kala Ghoda region in South Mumbai is a designated hub of culture and fine art! You will find several brilliant museums and galleries in this area, including the excellent Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaja Vastu Sangrahalaya (The Prince of Wales Museum) and the Jehangir Art Gallery, which has housed exhibitions by some of the largest names in the industry. Take a peak at the Nehru Centre Art Gallery at Nehru Planetarium in Worli for some mind boggling science & space related exhibits. Architecture & Colonial Buildings: Mumbai, or Bombay in erstwhile times, has been the chief entry-point to India ever since the Suez Canal opened up. As a port and industrial hub, the city was extremely vital to the British and they took good care of it. Testimonial of this can be seen vastly in the southern part of the city. Some great samples of the Gothic revival, Neo-classical and Indo-Saracenic style are seen within this area. Best way to explore is to take a stroll around the wide streets from Churchgate to Colaba. These areas are beautifully planned, with sizeable, wide pavements – a stark contrast to the rest of the city. Famous monuments on this route: Gateway of India, The Municipal Corporation & Police Headquarters, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus) – which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Mumbai University buildings & the High Court are great testaments to the colonial architecture in the city. The Marine Drive in south Mumbai, stretching from the National Center for Performing Arts right up to Chowpatty beach, is lined with buildings built in the Art Deco style – Mumbai is second only to Miami in the number of Art Deco building; this includes famous cinema houses – Regal Cinemas & Eros.
The Iconic Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus Mumbai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Prev Next Beaches: For an island city, Mumbai has a non-existent beach scene. Popular beach fronts include Girgaon Chowpatty & Juhu Beach – the waters are alarmingly dirty and the beaches crowded, so you’d totally be within your rights to skip them altogether, but most tourists can rarely resist the temptation.
Religious Places: Befitting a largely religious populace, Mumbai has several world famous places of worship belonging to different faiths. You’ll see massive variety ranging from temples, mosques, churches, Parsi agiaries, and even a few synagogues co-existing side-by-side – a stark reminder of the diversely cosmopolitan nature of the city’s masses. Notable religious venues include the Haji Ali Dargah, a tiny islet located 500 metres from the coast in the middle of Worli Bay – you have to walk the 500 meters on a narrow pavement in the middle of the sea. Siddhivinayak Temple in Dadar is popular and local legend believes the deity to be wish-granting. Other notable places of worship include the ISCKON Temple in Juhu, belonging to the widely known Hare Krishna movement and the Global Vipassana Pagoda, in Gorai – a meditation hall built as a monument of peace & harmony dedicated to Buddha and his teachings is an excellent venue for meditation. 
Nightlife:
Mumbai is fondly known as the ‘city that never sleeps’, which is true in most parts. Venture out at 3-4 am in the night and you’ll always find a decent number of people in the main-street areas. Auto-rickshaws & cabs ply their trade around the clock, though public transport usually stalls for a few hours at night. Mumbai has a massive number of bars, pubs & lounges – most remain open till well after midnight on weekdays and oftentimes till 2am on weekends. South Mumbai has several brilliant venues for a drink including a couple of microbreweries in The Barking Deer Brewpub & The White Owl, both situated in Lower Parel. A few notable clubs include Tryst, China House & F-Bar – all of which are upmarket venues. Cafe Mondegar & Leopold Cafe in Fort are renowned venues frequented by a very cosmopolitan mass, including large numbers of foreign nationals.
In the western suburbs, Bandra & Juhu are the epicenters of nightlife activity with a plethora of pubs & lounges to choose from. Mumbai is the most liberal of Indian cities in terms of alcohol consumption, even for women – but just as everywhere else, you’d do well to keep your wits around you while consuming alcohol.
The Effervescent Cafe Mondegar, Colaba
Hidden Gems:
Khotachi Wadi: Among the cities many best kept secrets is the timeless heritage village of Khotachiwadi, situated in Girgaon, Mumbai. Houses that conform to old Portuguese styled architecture, only painted in imaginative hues by the present generation turn the clock back several decades into the lives of traditional East Indian Christian community life, of which, so little is known outside of Mumbai and Goa. Walk through its narrow streets and knock on doors on impulse to converse with descendants of some of the most historically steeped families in the city. 
The Bazaars of Bombay: Amongst the multi-pronged appeals of Mumbai a diverse, combative city, the one thing that never ceases to amuse outsiders is its countless street markets or bazaars. Shopping in the city is an experience of several contrasts. Some of the biggest bazaars are borderline legal, but have continued to exist for decades in the same spot with street hawkers gawking inventive sales pitches at you. Your bargaining & negotiation skills will never be tested any better than some of these bazaars. When in Mumbai, make it a point to spend plenty of time just wandering through its timeless bazaars, soaking in its frantic pace and its people’s amazing ability to co-exist amidst pure chaos. Some must see bazaars on the list:
Chor Bazar (translated literally, Thief Market) is term colloquially used for a market renowned for selling stolen items. While this trend still exists in its bewildering, interconnecting by-lanes, the absolute variety of goods being sold on its streets is marvel-worthy. Keep your wits around while shopping in these lanes – it is known for hawkers that will sell fakes, shoddy second hand items and even pick-pocketers a plenty.
Colaba Causeway: in the vicinity of the Gateway of India, lies the renowned Colaba Causeway, filled with tourists & locals. What brings them to the Causeway? A great collection of authentic Indian souvenirs, antiques, carpets – as a foreign tourist, this is one of your places-to-go to buy souvenirs for back home. Make sure you bargain, and bargain well – the prices quoted by the road-side vendors is bound to be exhorbitant, and you will need to negotiate well to walk away with a good product at a reasonable price.
Street Shopping in Mumbai – One of the most unique experiences of the city!
Zaveri Bazaar is the place to go for jewellery shopping – the sheer number of options available in this traditional jewellery market in Bhuleshwar, South Mumbai will bedazzle you to say the least!
Crawford Market: within 10 minutes of walking distance from the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, this is a wholesale market that offers a wide variety of imported goods such as food, cosmetics, household & gift items.
Have a tryst with Bollywood: Mumbai is the hometown of Bollywood; countless youngsters come to the city every day with a dream to become the next Amitabh Bacchan of Bollywood, leading to the city also being titled the ‘city of dreams’. Take some time off to watch a movie in one of the countless movie theaters in the city. Go beyond the local multiplexes and explore some of the older theaters of the city such as Regal, Eros, Metro, Imax Adlabs, Chandan Cinema, etc.
Spend an evening on the sea-front: if you’re fortunate enough to find affordable accommodation at a sea-front place, you’re already blessed. If not, do spend a day at one of many sea-front promenades; in particular the Marine Drive, which is known as the queen’s necklace at night and is quite a sight when seen from a distance/height. Worli Sea Face or one of Bandra Bandstand, Carter Road are other brilliant options – munch on some roasted corn as you stroll through the breezy promenades. The sea has always been special for the city, and many travelers fall in love with the city on dusky evenings spent gazing at the benevolent Arabian Sea.
The Iconic Marine Drive – A Special Place for Every Mumbaikar
Discover secret cafes in the by-lanes of Bandra: Bandra is where the city and the suburb collide with great force. The suburban areas of Bandra are tranquil with hidden cafes and amazing bakery shops littered through its peaceful streets. Take a walk through Turner Road, Pali Hill or for that matter any of Bandra’s inner lanes and fall in love with the beautifully constructed duplexes/bungalows that have stood there for decades. Mingle with the local Christian community and experience their unique take on the English language.
Experience A Rainy Day in Mumbai – The City shares a strong bond with the sea and the monsoon, despite the inconveniences it brings!
Inside Tips:
Don’t go Overboard on the Local Food: Local Indian cuisine is mouth-watering tasty, but that’s primarily because it is prepared in such a wide assortment of spices and oils. If you aren’t used to it, they can seriously leave you spending the whole of next day visiting the restroom! This by any means, doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try out the local cuisine whatsoever, but only that you do it with some caution and self-control!
Keep your wits about: Honestly, this is the only real inside advice I’d give to any western tourist that comes to Mumbai. Compared to most western cities of this size, the pace at which life moves in Mumbai is dazzling & extremely unsettling. As a stranger, unfamiliar with the city, you can very easily feel unbelievably hassled & harried with its frantic pace & chaotic nature, where you’ll constantly be pressed for personal space. You can ill-afford to allow any of your senses to switch off for even the minutest of time-frames. While Mumbai is amongst the most liberal places in India, as a white-skinned traveler, you might be a constant source of attention, often unwanted – people will stare with fascination for no apparent reason. While most people you meet will be kind, friendly & warm – plenty will even go out of their way to help you out, but please understand that a large part of the city lives in sheer poverty, crime is rampant, and amongst such a large number of people, you’re bound to meet your share that will want to hoodwink you or take you for a ride.
Be aware of Local Sensitivities: For the umpteenth time, Mumbai is a fairly liberal, cosmopolitan city, but its large diversity also means the existence of a sizeable number of sensitivities. Like most parts in India, the city feels very strongly about religion(s). Take every care to respect local cultures, norms and beliefs, just like you would anywhere else you travel to and always steer clear of local conflicts, no matter how trivial in nature.
Mumbai – the city where a million dreams collide…everyday!
Some Useful Resources:
Important Phone Numbers for Travelers
Safety Tips for Women Travelers in India
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